Just how important are shotgun chokes?

[Ovenpaa]

I have owned multi choke shotguns in the past with various chokes and always found myself leaving 1/2 and 3/4 or similar in and only ever removing them for cleaning. Equally I have been at clay shoots where other shooters were swapping chokes at every stand so my question is just how important are multi chokes on shotguns and do different types of plastic cup wadding give a similar albeit not as effective result on the pattern?

I ask because I am considering alternatives for a shotgun that is choked cylinder and is not worth sending to the likes of Teague to be threaded and I do not have the reamer and tap to do the work in-house.

[TomH]

Choke is irrelevant it's patterns that matter. True cylinder has probably taken more game than choked guns. Look at the records of the Market Gunners in the US on ducks and geese. Read Major Ruffer's book the Art of Good shooting and see that he was an advocate of true cylinder and 1 1/8oz of number 7 shot for shooting game up to 40 yards IIRC. People have become obsessed with technology and gadgetry. Plus high velocity for shotgun cartridges which does tend to throw patterns ever more open. If you are handloading then go for some pre high velocity fad spec loads and find one that patterns well in your gun or try some lower velocity factory loads.

[The Event]

I don't change chokes between stands at clay shoots but I do use different chokes in my semi auto depending on what I'm using it for.
Improved cylinder for shooting slugs
Modified for clay shooting
Full for practical

If I was only going to use each gun for a single purpose I'd be happy with fixed chokes.

[Billett]

I only ever use 1/2 and 3/4. Changing at every stand just gives you more to worry about. There is very little at a standard shoot that these two can't make

[Ovenpaa]

I agree on the 1/2 and 3/4 - The only shotgun I ever purchased new was a 30" Sporter Miroku 6000 back in the 1990's - It is the oiled finish with fixed chokes and is still virtually looks like the day it came out of the shop despite many thousands of shots through it. It was originally for clays however these days it is used for live quarry and does the job very nicely.

[ukrifleman]

My late Dad was an excellent shot and he always said you need half and full choke for wildfowl on the fore- shore, 3/4 and 1/2 for driven game and improved cylinder and half for shooting over decoys.

My memories of his average bag after a days shooting have born this out.

ukrifleman.

[Dark Skies]

To be honest I don't know what choke is fitted to my Silma M80 - sales peep said it was set for clays and I've no reason to question that as I keep breaking them. Other chokes came with the gun but I've not been inclined to bother with them. I took out the existing ones to see how it'd fare without them - made no difference that I could tell. Threads were fouled a bit with wad material but other than that zero difference.

[DaveB]

I generally shoot Skeet and 1/4 for Sporting Clays, but I will admit to going a bit tighter for long shots, going away.

[tackb]

Skeet and skeet or 1/4-1/4 for sporting clays

1/2-1/2 for game

I once got distracted changing chokes before a 100 bird sporting and shot the layout without any chokes in , same score as usual !

[Mattnall]

I have seen so many shooters spend the moments before getting in the cage worrying about what choke to use for the next 10 shots and fiddling with wrenches etc that they get to the stand and haven't even thought about lead, swing etc. Then blame the chokes for a poor score whilst proceeding to remove them in preparation of the smae problem at the next stand.

Personally I chose the chokes at the beginning of the shoot and leave them in. Then I only have to worry about the clay's path and how, not with what, I'm going to shoot it. Normally it's ½ and ¾ for usual varied sporting and skeet for, well, skeet. It's rare I go to full unless I'm out after feathery critters that might need it.