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PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 10:14 pm 
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Hmmm, ordinary clays are hard enough to hit, and we can't see these being any cheaper....

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 7:31 am 
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Built, upgraded, crashed and now awaiting a new flight controller when I have the time. My tip would be buy unbreakable props to start off with and beware a 250 out of control, it is like a chainsaw with attitude. Biggest thing for me is just how fast they can be if you are not careful, also if building from scratch source the parts from reputable stockists.

I had a CC3D controller that simply refused to accept firmware upgrades so I replaced it with a OP Revolution which is much easier to work with and offers many more features however I managed to trash it in the end, even though the parts were a present from my son I shudder to think what the financial and man hour costs has been to me to date :)

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 9:32 am 
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Thanks for the tips. Do you fly yours with FPV goggles? I've bought some and the idea is it should make it easier for my son to learn to fly the drone wearing them. i.e. the controls aren't backwards when it's flown towards you. That's the theory anyway...

Yep I accept that "build - fly - crash" > "build - fly - crash" will be a continual life cycle of the drone, but what would you estimate each crash to cost you and how often do they happen? It would be useful to set expectations! :)


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 9:43 am 
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No FPV goggles yet although they are on the list of things and they have come down a lot in price over the last 12 months.

Are you going to build from scratch or a kit? Information is out there and probably ideally suited to youngsters, I found it to be a whole new world and I simply wanted to know enough to progress to the next stage of build, not go into the molecular structure or the part or read some long winded instruction on setting up a part which actually needs no setting up...

The Viking has an Android tablet (Lenovo Yoga 2) and is used as the base station so in theory I can make changes on the fly, it also shows me where the vehicle is using a GPS module and shows attitude and heading so you know which way to walk....

Spares wise they are remarkably robust, I have fitted unbreakable props and although frowned upon they work well and cost something like a tenner for 4x4 sets. Programming software wise I use LibrePilot which is well supported and I strongly recommend the Open Pilot Revolution as a flight controller, go for the full sized version. One final point, my charger takes hours to charge so get a fast charger and a spare battery pack or two.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 10:19 am 
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Right unbreakable props it is! RC is something I flirted with about 10 years ago, so I still have a reasonable charger and the batteries are a fraction of the price today, so I'll load up with li-polys when I'm ready. The Fatshark goggles I just bought were to finish off my Multiplex Easystar headtracking FPV project, I started all those years ago and then I noticed racing drones... :) Any advice on which class of drone to build? Is 210 or 250 about the right size?

As a minimum I was going to follow an online build and buy the components they use, but I'm open to suggestions. Would you recommend buying a kit? If so any suggestions as to which one? I watched this build the other day and thought it was probably a good place to start.



Does the Open Pilot Revolution FC allow me to control the flight mode (angle, horizon, rate) and speed rate (low, medium, high)? These are features I'd like to have to make it easier for my son to learn.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 2:53 pm 
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If you're new to RC flying, and particularly drones, I would advise spending £30 on a cheap basic drone and getting a few hours practice in.

http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-E010-Mi ... s=category

A 250 drone is fast and quite heavy, near the ground, say less that 20 feet, you don't have much time to correct any wrong inputs. Higher up it disappears into the trees very quickly.

You will also need to consider whether to go down the Mode 1 or Mode 11 route. I've always used Mode 11 (Throttle and rudder on the left, ailerons and elevator on the right).

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-RC-Qu ... rtType=asc

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 3:18 pm 
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Thanks for the info, although I've got more RC experience than perhaps I've let on. Although I must concede, not as much as I should for for the time and money I sunk into it last time... :)

I sold this last week because I never finished it and I don't have a workshop at the current house. It's a SiST FW190 A8 1:5 with a Zenoah G45SL and air retracts. I'm not sure if you can make out the detail in the photos, but it's about as scale as you could hope for.

Image

Image

Image

It would have been a lot of fun... but if I don't have anywhere to finish it, I can't fly it. I still have a Katana 140 running a Saito 180 and a Trex 450 helicopter (with HC3SX) but the last time I flew 2.4GHz was fairly new, so some of my receivers are still 35MHz. I do have a Spektrum DX8 and like you it's mode 2, it seems to make sense to me.

1066 wrote:
If you're new to RC flying, and particularly drones, I would advise spending £30 on a cheap basic drone and getting a few hours practice in.

http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-E010-Mi ... s=category

A 250 drone is fast and quite heavy, near the ground, say less that 20 feet, you don't have much time to correct any wrong inputs. Higher up it disappears into the trees very quickly.

You will also need to consider whether to go down the Mode 1 or Mode 11 route. I've always used Mode 11 (Throttle and rudder on the left, ailerons and elevator on the right).

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-RC-Qu ... rtType=asc


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 6:27 pm 
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The OP Revolution in conjunction with LibrePilot offers just about every conceivable configuration and tweak and is superbly well built and supported, you can d/l and try it for Linux or Windows, there is also a little base station app for Android.

My choice would be a 250 and you can trim the inputs on the Revo right down to maintain a sluggish and stable platform right through to as sketchy as you could wish.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 6:50 pm 
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Thanks, I'll look into it as we get closer to Christmas. I love tinkering with technology, but I need to remember the drone's not for me! O:-)

It was the horizon setting I was particularly interested in, but at a casual glance it looks like they all do it. I haven't found an exception yet... Right 250 it is!

Thanks.

Ovenpaa wrote:
The OP Revolution in conjunction with LibrePilot offers just about every conceivable configuration and tweak and is superbly well built and supported, you can d/l and try it for Linux or Windows, there is also a little base station app for Android.

My choice would be a 250 and you can trim the inputs on the Revo right down to maintain a sluggish and stable platform right through to as sketchy as you could wish.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:52 pm 
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Thanks for the info, although I've got more RC experience than perhaps I've let on. Although I must concede, not as much as I should for the time and money I sunk into it last time... :)

Ahh! Not really a newbie then :) The FW 190 with retracts look the business, pity you never got it finished.

This was my last "plane" project, built about two years ago. It's a life sized Herring Gull built from scratch. I supposedly built it for my grandson, it flew very well and looked very realistic when flown from cliff in a light breeze. Unfortunately it was a bit tricky to land so ended up where most RC planes go.

ImageImageImage

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