Alpha1 wrote:I have a T4 I thought it was time I started shooting it. It came fitted with none gun smithing scope rail. I fitted a night force scope to it and tok it to the range. I tried to zero it at 100 yards with no success. I asked some of the other guys who have more experience than me with scopes to zero it. They had no success. I stuck it back in the cabinet and forgot about it. To day I had access to a 25 yard range that allows you to shoot full bore so I took it with me. I managed to get it on the paper but at twenty five yards it shoots 4 inches high but I ran out of adjustment on the scope. Im thinking its the rail but I would appreciate any input from someone with more experience. Scopes are a dark art to me.
Yes they look very nice but at that price its more than the rifle is worth. Buying some thing like that and getting it fitted makes it a very expensive rifle.
Alpha1 wrote:.... I have removed the shims and will bore sight it benched at 25 yards without them then shoot it for zero at 100 yards. If I still have an issue I will shim the rear scope mount and not the rail. Does this make sense.
Sounds like a plan, let us know how it goes.
It is a shame you are not closer to us, it is always easier to do something like this than explain it :)
/d
Du lytter aldrig til de ord jeg siger. Du ser mig kun for det tøj jeg har paa ...
1066 wrote:As Chapuis said earlier, you'll need to shim the front mount if you are already shooting high.
Im confused if its shooting high and I have ran out of adjustment to bring it down why would you shim the front sight and lift the front of the scope higher.?
Alpha1 wrote:I have taken the scope and rail off. I have taken the windage and elevation turrets back to zero. I have removed the shims and cleaned everything up. The plan is to replace the mount and scope and bore sight it one night this week of a bench at 25 yards. Saturday I will attempt to zero it at 100 yards.A couple of other people who know more about scopes than me have had a go at zeroing it at 100 yards with out any success.
(What I know about scopes setting up and the use of could be written on the back of a postage stamp.)
You would be better off bore sighting it at 100 yards and then test firing it at 25 to confirm its on the paper before extending to 100 yards.
It's not unusual for clubs to have a rule that after mounting a new scope on a rifle or carrying out any work on the sight system that the rifle is tested first at 25 yards before going back further. It can save an awful lot of wear and tear on the range and the targets by doing so.
1066 wrote:As Chapuis said earlier, you'll need to shim the front mount if you are already shooting high.
Im confused if its shooting high and I have ran out of adjustment to bring it down why would you shim the front sight and lift the front of the scope higher.?
Because a scope is no different to iron sights. To raise the point of impact you need to either raise the rear sight or lower the front sight. Therefore the reverse applies, if you want to lower the point of impact (which you do) you need to raise the front sight or lower the rear sight.
P.S. Shimming is regarded by most as a poor solution and is normally employed only as a last resort. Good mounts properly mounted shouldn't require it. As has already been said rings with offset liners are a much better solution.
Yes I have been looking at the Burris rings a set will cost me approx £100. I may go down that route.
To day I cut some shims in different thickness. I intend to shim the scope rail it was all ready shimmed when I got it which makes me think the previous owner had the same problem. Because of the design of the rail and how it mounts to the rifle it is possible to do this. I take on board your comments about bore sighting at 100 yards and shooting it at 25 yards and I may well do that.
