Choosing calibre

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dgw65

Choosing calibre

#1 Post by dgw65 »

Looking at Krank's website the Uberti 1873 rifle is available in .32/20, 38/40, 38SPL, 357MAG, 44/40, 44SPL, 44MAG and 45LC.

I'd ideally like a 44/40 one because it's the original calibre but I don't want to do that thing that 'nobody does' so wanted to ask.. Is calibre choice just based on personal preference, ammo cost & what's used at your club or is there some convention/expectation?

Thanks.
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Sim G
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Re: Choosing calibre

#2 Post by Sim G »

Primarily, which do you fancy? .44-40? Get it. If you reload it will make your ammo more available and in this guise, more affordable than factory. Three of the Calibers listed are actually original chamberings...
In 1978 I was told by my grand dad that the secret to rifle accuracy is, a quality bullet, fired down a quality barrel..... How has that changed?

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Re: Choosing calibre

#3 Post by GlockworkOrange »

For me there are a number of different considerations. I'm going to be buying another Uberti 1866 soon and I'm also trying to decide on calibre.

- I have to consider the velocity and energy limits at my club. I have to keep under 475 ft/lbs so no 'proper' rifle calibres unless heavily down-loaded.

- This isn't a deal breaker, but especially if a calibre is new to me I like to be able to buy a box of factory ammo for baseline testing. If you want to be able to buy a box of cheap factory ammo then you'll want to stick to .38/.357. Magtech (and others) make cowboy loads in .44 SPL, .44-40 and .45 Colt but they cost more and can be harder to find in stock. Go for .32 or .38 WCF and you won't find factory ammo.

- This is a bit of a weird one but it does factor into my decision making - weight. Smaller the hole, heavier the gun. I've had Uberti .32 and .44 rifles side by side (octagonal barrels) and the .44 was noticeably lighter up front

- Historical accuracy. I love .45 Colt but it kind of bothers me that it's not something that was used in lever-actions until much more recently. An 1873 in .44-40 just seems right to me.

- Variety. While I often have an LBR and a rifle sharing the same calibre, I try and keep things varied. Also, the police are much more likely to question/resist your variation if you ask for another gun when you already have a few in that calibre.

As Sim says, get what you fancy! Unless you go for a .38/.357 you're most likely going to be loading your own, so just factor the cost of that in.
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Re: Choosing calibre

#4 Post by 1066 »

Just to reinforce what GwO says - my local club has a calibre limit of .357, so check before you buy.
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dgw65

Re: Choosing calibre

#5 Post by dgw65 »

GlockworkOrange wrote:For me there are a number of different considerations. I'm going to be buying another Uberti 1866 soon and I'm also trying to decide on calibre.

- I have to consider the velocity and energy limits at my club. I have to keep under 475 ft/lbs so no 'proper' rifle calibres unless heavily down-loaded.

- This isn't a deal breaker, but especially if a calibre is new to me I like to be able to buy a box of factory ammo for baseline testing. If you want to be able to buy a box of cheap factory ammo then you'll want to stick to .38/.357. Magtech (and others) make cowboy loads in .44 SPL, .44-40 and .45 Colt but they cost more and can be harder to find in stock. Go for .32 or .38 WCF and you won't find factory ammo.

- This is a bit of a weird one but it does factor into my decision making - weight. Smaller the hole, heavier the gun. I've had Uberti .32 and .44 rifles side by side (octagonal barrels) and the .44 was noticeably lighter up front

- Historical accuracy. I love .45 Colt but it kind of bothers me that it's not something that was used in lever-actions until much more recently. An 1873 in .44-40 just seems right to me.

- Variety. While I often have an LBR and a rifle sharing the same calibre, I try and keep things varied. Also, the police are much more likely to question/resist your variation if you ask for another gun when you already have a few in that calibre.

As Sim says, get what you fancy! Unless you go for a .38/.357 you're most likely going to be loading your own, so just factor the cost of that in.
Thanks, yes I'm not thrilled by the prospect of rolling my own but I would if I had to, see how much I end up shooting & do the maths I guess.

Being bigger 44 must be easier to handle/load into a lever gun than 357 I would've thought too right..?
Sim G wrote:Primarily, which do you fancy? .44-40? Get it. If you reload it will make your ammo more available and in this guise, more affordable than factory. Three of the Calibers listed are actually original chamberings...
Ah ok fair enough well 44/40 is what I tend to associate with the 1873 so to me it seems 'correct' - it appears 44/40 is about twice the price of 357 but I've only had a quick scan..
1066 wrote:Just to reinforce what GwO says - my local club has a calibre limit of .357, so check before you buy.
Yeah I'm trapped in the 'everything up in the air' zone atm & covid really isn't helping! I shan't commit to anything until I've got full club membership so by then I'll know what their limits are - all I can do for now is read, learn & ask daft questions ;)




Woohoo I've figured out how to multi-quote! lollol
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Re: Choosing calibre

#6 Post by 1066 »

All the straight walled pistol calibers are easy to reload - The cases last pretty well for ever if not over stressed, cowboy type loads are very economical - 4-5 grains of powder gives around 1,500 rounds to a pound tub at around £40. Lead bullets are cheap and even cheaper if you cast your own.
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Re: Choosing calibre

#7 Post by Sim G »

I've got to chuck this in though, it doesn't matter what caliber you get it in, the Uberti is a lovely rifle. And remember, the more obscure the model, the longer Kranks will take to get it! My 1873 in .44-40, in the Special Sporting Short Rifle, took 18 months!
In 1978 I was told by my grand dad that the secret to rifle accuracy is, a quality bullet, fired down a quality barrel..... How has that changed?

Guns dont kill people. Dads with pretty Daughters do...!
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Re: Choosing calibre

#8 Post by GlockworkOrange »

^ Good point! And if it says 'In Stock' online.... It's probably not!
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Re: Choosing calibre

#9 Post by bradaz11 »

i have a special sporting 20" in 44spl, and a standard 20" in 32/20.
I wish my 32/20 was a special sporting as the checkering makes a difference in my mind.

loading wise, I like 44spl, it makes a nice big hole, brass is fairly easy to spot in the grass and is fairly cheap to buy. loading wise, it's very easy to do due to big case and bullets. and only uses around 5gr of a cheap shotgun powder to get very repeatable results.
brass is also cheap to buy especially compared to 44/40 and 32/20. and you can even use cut down 44mag if you know anyone disposing.

I find 32/20 very fiddly to get the first few rounds into the mag tube, especially on a gun with a heavy gate spring. no such issue with the big 44's.

a lot of people I know have moved over to 44/40 for their rifles, as its THE cowboy calibre for a lot of folk, but I'm very pleased and hapy to stick with my 44spl, and if I needed to replace that rifle, 44spl is what i'd try to get.

44mag is all very well, but I'd only load it the same as 44spl, so what's the point?
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Re: Choosing calibre

#10 Post by DaveB »

I would stick to straight-walled pistol calibres were I you. You can buy off the shelf ammo, and if you do decide to reload, you have the advantage of being able to use carbide dies.
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