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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2017 11:10 am 
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Pete wrote:


These were my preferred fixings when I had cabinets.

They are far easier to fit than the rawl bolt type fittings, I drilled my holes at a slight angle.

They grip as tight as the expanding ones without the risk of over tightening.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2017 2:52 pm 
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GeeRam wrote:
Kungfugerbil wrote:
pbrazendale wrote:
Kungfugerbill, when you used the M10 version of the bolts what size hole did you drill?

Make sure you vac or scrape out the dust after drilling or you won't get the full depth.


This is very important.

You might find your vac won't suck out enough from the bottom of the holes, as they are too narrow, so if you can, blow out holes with air, such as one of those IT compressed air cans, or a foot pump with a cone air bed attachment will work a treat as well.


Or hold a straw in the end of the vac hose, using your hand to make the seal

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:25 am 
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As a matter of interest, is it a requirement to fix the cabinet to the floor as well as the wall?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:51 am 
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No don't believe so, but its good to do so if you can


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 10:18 am 
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johnson3392 wrote:
As a matter of interest, is it a requirement to fix the cabinet to the floor as well as the wall?


A visiting FEO may ask how it is fitted and may give it a cursory wobble, but is unlikely to go to the 'n'th degree on it. My bloke didn't even touch it, just had a look where it was and said 'yep, that's fine'.

There are recommendations and suggestions, but ultimately gun safes are there to provide a reasonable attempt to frustrate someone who wants to get hold of what's inside them.

I fixed mine to the floor, but I was refurbishing the house at the time so had the boards up anyway. I put in a noggin for one side of the cab and used a joist for the other, secured with coach screws through the cab floor.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 10:24 am 
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Thank you both. Just good practice rather than a legal thing. My wife has just got round to me using a chunk of cupboard space for my future cabinet. I don't think she would stand me tearing up carpet or skirting board if it was a FEO requirement. Apologies for hijacking the thread slightly.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 9:17 pm 
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What length of rawlbolt would be recommended for modern block & plasterboard walls? (using this type: http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-fsa-s ... pack/89358).

I used normal rawlbolts to fix my other two cabinets, but they ended up being very long and difficult to find a grip, so I'd like to give the ones above a go for the new cabinet.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 9:26 pm 
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I'd say between 100 and 150, but depends on the block used and the cavity size i'd imagine.

the bonus with that type of fixing is that it won't project back into the cabinet, just be carefull of cracking the blocks.

I've preffered to buy the styrene free polyester resin type fixing compound, and stick in some studding. but then you have to trim off the excess

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2017 10:08 pm 
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bradaz11 wrote:
I'd say between 100 and 150, but depends on the block used and the cavity size i'd imagine.

the bonus with that type of fixing is that it won't project back into the cabinet, just be carefull of cracking the blocks.

I've preffered to buy the styrene free polyester resin type fixing compound, and stick in some studding. but then you have to trim off the excess


Thanks for that. And yes, that was the problem I was getting. The blocks seem to be made of blue cheese. 8-)


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2017 11:08 pm 
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Just an update my original order of the Infac gun safe fell through as the RFD was let down by the supplier, anyhow managed to get a Brattonsound RD7+, had a mare getting it installed I could not get the Fischer sleeve anchors to grip and tight in the holes so went out and got some M10 rawl plugs and they worked a dream it's not going anywhere now, I've given it a good tug.

Cheers for all the advice.

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