Reloading data

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rox
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Re: Reloading data

#11 Post by rox »

Grovenik46 wrote:Thank you Rex
That's 'Rox'.
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Re: Reloading data

#12 Post by DavidRees »

Grovenik46 wrote:Hi, thanks for all your reply’s,
I’m reloading for target shooting using a lee single press.
Im reloading .308 and I’m using cci large rifle primers, alliant powder reloaded 15 and lellien & bellot fmj147gt heads.
The reloading manuals that I’ve got and read are the lee reloading manual, shooters bible guide to hand loading and the precision long range shooting book. I’ve also got the Swiss reloaded data book and I’ve downloaded the alliance data sheets.
Thanks paul
Paul,

This is very helpful; it's much easier to give meaningful help now.

First, I'm going to state that what follows is for a modern rifle, in good condition, and well-maintained. I'm assuming that is what you have.
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The primers and powder you mention should be fine for your intended use, and the 147gr bullets are pretty good, too. Many would choose the Sierra 155gr #2155 (if still available) or #2156 but these S&B boat-tail bullets of yours will be fine for now, esp. if you only want to shoot out to 600yds.

I've taken a look at the Alliant website for load data for Reloder 15; it certainly is a bit sparse. However, there is a load there which will do as a starting point, though considerable caution is needed. It lists load data for a Speer 150gr SP bullet: MAXIMUM charge weight of 49gr.

First, it is essential to check out the Speer bullet, to see if it is similar to your S&B bullet. A web search turns up two Speer 150gr SP bullets in .308 calibre: a Hot-Cor flat-base (and short) bullet, which is not a good match, and a boat-tail design, which is a reasonable match. But which one is the Alliant data for?

Looking lower in the list, data for the Speer 168gr BTHP (boat-tail hollow-point) is given; it's the only boat-tail bullet explicitly in the list. This leads me to think that the data given is more likely to be for the Hot-Cor 150gr bullet. The minimum load length quoted for the Speer 150gr bullet (2.7") is also more likely to be for a short bullet than a long boat-tail design, too, which adds weight to this analysis.

So we don't have a good match, but we still have something we can use. Your bullet is a little lighter than the 150gr mentioned, and as long as you load the round of ammunition such that the overall cartridge length is a tiny fraction less than the maximum for .308 Win of 2.8" (say 2.775"), we can come up with a starting load which should be safe.

DON'T LOAD THE S&B 147gr BULLETS AT A LENGTH OF 2.7"!!!

IF THE CARTRIDGE LENGTH IS MUCH LESS THAN 2.775" with your S&B bullets, THE IGNITION PRESSURE WILL RISE CONSIDERABLY, MAKING THE AMMUNITION POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS.

DON'T LOAD THE 147gr BULLETS AT A LENGTH GREATER THAN 2.8"! AGAIN, PRESSURES CAN RISE TOO HIGH!

I STRONGLY advise that you use a pair of calipers suitable for such precise measurements; a ruler is NOT good enough.

The Alliant data advises a handloader to START with 10% less powder than the maximum quoted load, and work up slowly (say 0.5gr extra each time), until one of two things happen:
a) the desired accuracy and velocity is acheived, or
b) you notice signs of excess pressure (deformed primers, cases hard to extract, etc,.)

Since we don't have good starting data for your chosen bullet, I suggest you start at a full 20% below the load given. This will still shoot well at short range. Load a batch of 5, and test them for accuracy at 300yds, always watching out for excess pressure. If you have access to a chronograph, measuring the velocity of the bullet is a good indicator of how close you are to the optimum load.

Once you are confident the first load is safe you can go up 1.0gr for the next five rounds, and repeat the testing. Continue to go up in 1.0gr increments until you are 10% below the given load, and then go up 0.5gr each time if you need to.

This seems a really tedious and slow process, and in a way, it is. It might take a year to finally get to the optimum load. But it is a SAFE way to proceed, and you might be surprised just how accurate lighter loads of powder can be. If you don't shoot long distances (>600yds) you are unlikely to need to go anywhere near the maximum load to get an accurate round which maintains good elevation. You want the most accurate round for target shooting; this is often found well below the maximum safe load.

If you do plan to shoot beyond 600yds at some point, you definitely want to try the Sierra 155gr boat-tail instead of the 147gr S&B; the "Palma Match" bullet was designed for such long-range shooting.
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Take your time, know what you are doing, and remain careful at all times. This way you can enjoy handloading, which adds another dimension to our sport. And keep asking questions; it's the best way to learn.

David
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Re: Reloading data

#13 Post by Geek »

My advise BEFORE loading ANY ammunition, is to ask someone from your club to show you how to load.

In my opinion reading or even watching YouTube, isn't as good as watching it done in front of you. This is what I did when I started to reload and I felt much more confident making my own bullets (I reload .308, 6.5CM and .223 Rem).

Good luck, enjoy yourself and take your time.

Maybe get a checklist of the reloading basics before you start, so that you can check what you need against what you have. Once you start to reload, there will always be extra bits and bobs you want: such as better scales, drop tubes, different brass cleaning / preparation tools, etc, etc, the list will go on.
Regards,

Geek


AI AT (.308/6.5CM), Ruger PR (6.5CM), American Rimfire (.22LR), Remington 700 (.223), Marlin underlever .38/.357/.44, Savage 6BR, RimfireMagic .22LR, Fabarm Lion (s1), Fabarm Axis Baikal S/S
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Re: Reloading data

#14 Post by snayperskaya »

Geek wrote:
My advise BEFORE loading ANY ammunition, is to ask someone from your club to show you how to load.
This is solid advice, also read through a current, up to date manual and then read it again and once you do actually start to physically reload check everything, check it again and then check it again to make sure!.

I personally reload when I'm on my own and sat quiet with no distractions as it only takes someone chirping in your ear or banging about for your concentration to wander and that's when mistakes are made.I also don't reload if I'm pushed for time or I have other things on my mind as a mistake from a moments distraction could ultimately prove fatal!.
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Re: Reloading data

#15 Post by Alpha1 »

My wife and I have an understanding.
I have been doing this for at least 35 years if the door to the reloading room is closed the only disturbance is for her to pop a cup of tea in front of me and maybe a plate of digestive biscuits or failing that rich-tea biscuit,s.
Likewise, if she is in her sewing room and the machines are chattering no way would I attempt to gain access. I may shout through the door would you like a cuppa. But most times She just ignores me.
So I go and do gun stuff or go play in my sheds. You young guys just need to work on your game. It all falls into place eventually. Well maybe.
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Re: Reloading data

#16 Post by TattooedGun »

Hi Paul,

I will sit with you and go through this when you reload.

It's much more worth a chat face to face than trying to type out long and complicated explanations of internal ballistics and making assumptions of what is known or not known.

Ask 10 different people the best way forward, and get 10 different answers.

Safety will always be the highest priority, and we'll see if we can get some accuracy whilst being safe.
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