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I just got my BSA out of the cupboard and field strikpped it. The procedure is as follows:
Undo the knurled screw until the reduced portion lines up with the slot.
With the the grip area in the right hand, hold the index finger on the blade protruding for the front of the trigger guard.
With the left hand, operate the slide action vigourously. Several back and forth movements may be required.
The receiver should move forward out of the trigger plate assembly, but it may stop after a small amount of travel if the screw is not adjusted properly---I never get it right first time.
Adjust the take down screw and repeat the above.
Fred

FredB wrote:I just got my BSA out of the cupboard and field strikpped it. The procedure is as follows:
Undo the knurled screw until the reduced portion lines up with the slot.
With the the grip area in the right hand, hold the index finger on the blade protruding for the front of the trigger guard.
With the left hand, operate the slide action vigourously. Several back and forth movements may be required.
The receiver should move forward out of the trigger plate assembly, but it may stop after a small amount of travel if the screw is not adjusted properly---I never get it right first time.
Adjust the take down screw and repeat the above.
Fred

Brilliant Fred, thank you. But can I ask you to just elaborate on one part please ? "Undo the knurled screw until the reduced portion lines up with the slot." Sorry, I don't understand this. I understand about the use of the index finger and all the rest but it's just the correct position of the screw. Lining up with the slot ? Sorry, I know I'm probably being stupid, any chance of elaborating please ?

It will become apparent when you try to do it. I did mention that I never get it right first time.
Fred

FredB wrote:It will become apparent when you try to do it. I did mention that I never get it right first time.
Fred

Sorry Fred but I have tried every which way, from the screw being half a turn undone and then unscrewing it a little bit more (a quarter of a turn each time), and in every position I have used the method that you describe. Pulling the small lever in front of the trigger guard back towards the trigger with my right index finger and at the same time going through the motions as if I was reloading and cocking the rifle with my left hand. There is absolutely no sign of movement whatsoever between the two mating surfaces where the screw is located. Is there anything else I can do that might help please ?

You need to find somebody who knows what he is doing.
Fred

I now have the dismantling process under way. Firstly there is an enormous amount of gunk in there, although my weapons are practical weapons they are constantly cleaned and oiled and I can tell that this is a mixture of oil, dust, lint/cotton, and possibly paper. Can I ask for opinions please on the following images ?
The first one is just to show the state of the "bolt" if that's what it's called, it looks pretty gunky to me. The second one shows where I presume the spring is and that is quite gunky but it looks a bit of a fiddle to dismantle it. Would it be sufficient just to thorougly clean inside with a brush and some kind of de-greaser ? The third image shows the firing pin. Can I have a genuine appraisal of the condition of that please ? Thanks again to all those who are sticking with me on this.

They are not weapons!

They are firearms.

Weapons imply that they are held with the intent of doing harm.

Give it a good clean and it might just be 'fixed'. It's certainly be easier to tell if something is amiss.
I have seen gunk build up stop a firing pin short of full travel and give light strikes but I've no experience with this rifle.

As far as cleaning, carb cleaner will remove most of that I'd guess, and a light oil on reassembly should do the trick.

Strip as much as you feel able, leave the whole lot to soak in some sort of de-greaser fluid, petrol will do the job. Scrub everything with a toothbrush or better still a soft brass suede brush, prick all the corners out with a cocktail stick,. Wash again in your degreaser, then soak the whole lot in a light oil - a good shake and wipe off - good to go.

Mattnall wrote:Give it a good clean and it might just be 'fixed'. It's certainly be easier to tell if something is amiss.
I have seen gunk build up stop a firing pin short of full travel and give light strikes but I've no experience with this rifle.

As far as cleaning, carb cleaner will remove most of that I'd guess, and a light oil on reassembly should do the trick.

I can't find a "Thank you" key on this forum but thank you anyway. Very helpful

1066 wrote:Strip as much as you feel able, leave the whole lot to soak in some sort of de-greaser fluid, petrol will do the job. Scrub everything with a toothbrush or better still a soft brass suede brush, prick all the corners out with a cocktail stick,. Wash again in your degreaser, then soak the whole lot in a light oil - a good shake and wipe off - good to go.

Yes, did pretty much as you have suggested. I was very surprised when I could scrape some of the gunk out with a tooth pick. But all done now and back together and just fired 8 rounds without a misfire. But what I am finding really bizarre is the difference in the firing pin strike on the case. On the image below the case on the left was shot before all the cleaning, the case on the right is after. I have double checked and that is correct. It looks like two different firing pins to me but I can assure everybody that those two rounds were fired by the same rifle. And so thanks to everybody who has contributed in a helpful manner to my problem. It has been a learning curve for me. I am quite conversant with taking engines out of tractors and mending the guts of a combine after trying to thresh a lump of rock but this was all new and without you all I would never have got started. Thanks again.