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I'm just about to start reloading for my 308. Not sure how much info you need to be able to help, but here's what I'm using:
Sako TRG22 308.
Barrel 660
Twist 1/11
Sights NF 8-32x56
Bullet heads PPU 168gr HPBT
Cases PPU (fire formed in rifle)
Vihta Vuori N140
CCI primer

I'm using the VV guide, so aiming for OAL of 71.

I know you're supposed to start at the bottom end of the range, which would be 36.3gr, but what I'm not sure is by what graduations to go up and how many of each graduation to make.
Also, the velocity of the factory made PPU ammunition for 168gr HPBT match, which use the same bullet head and case is much higher than the highest load suggested for reloading. Which has confused me.


Any help or advice would be much appreciated. TIA

My recommendation would be to use some decent bullets.
Lapua 155`s are hard to beat.

And 167 scenars with N150 might be even better!

I would start with an OAL that gets you at 10 thou off the lands as this should be near optimum jump from case to lands with the 308 ( generalisation so don’t jump on me ) this will then give you an idea of where to start powder load, available space in the case. This figure will have to be re assessed if you change bullet manufacture even if weight is the same
Better bullets like Lapua, Sierra and Berger will generally give you a better consistency from bullet to bullet than PPU which will improve cosistance of shot placement at longer ranges(600+)
1-11 twist should suit either 155 or 167 weight range of bullets but ideally not heavier although some 175s do work well in this twist

I know it’s a pain but start low and work up powder charge, try and borrow or buy a chronograph and aim for around 2850 fps as I have always found this a good stable velocity

Good luck

Forgot to add
Buy a couple of good reloading manuals and read, read and read again the first 50 pages which is the reloading process

Before you do anything buy a Cartridge over all lentgh gauge tap one of you fired cases and get an accurate measurement using your bullet of choice so you know exactly what your maximum seating depth is. Dont make fifty rounds to try a powder weight. Make nine at each powder weight shoot them in three shot strings. Dont waste powder and components making ammo that does not work.

I’m with Tony, use better better bullets. PPU bullets are Shiite.

They rest of your components are good and your rifle and scope is excellent. But you’ll be frustrated once you get to distances where it will begin to tell and that is only 350yds up…

Would you run a race car on Tesco unleaded?

As has been stated good handloading manuals along with the the powder manufacturers data is almost essential for load development.

When choosing a manual make sure that the data they are providing has been pressure tested, the Lyman manual has pressure tested data, Avoid the Lee manual like the plague it just plagiarises others data and throw in a few mistakes of their own.

There is no such thing as bullet heads, as a new person to handloading it is incumbent 'pon you to learn the correct terminology so as to avoid confusion and the potential for accidents, the only head in a round of ammunition is the "case head". "Bullet heads" came for people who should know better trying to avoid customer and employee ignorance of the difference 'tween a bullet and a round of ammunition!

I work up loads in 1/2 grain increments to start with, read the sticky here on "pressure". Once you are in the best accuracy zone then it may be beneficial to refine around that with smaller increments either side of sweet spot.

Use the best bullets you can get. The bullet is the most important part of a load for accuracy, intelligent handloading is all about reducing the variables so that the effect of any individual change can be noticed. Top quality bullets will reduce that variable in the load so that you can focus on the loads performance without having to wonder if its the bullets fault for poor groups.

Once you have gained experience and knowledge then you can look at tailoring your loads, such as cheap bullets for plinking and the shorter ranges.

dromia wrote: ↑Tue Jan 04, 2022 10:23 am I work up loads in 1/2 grain increments to start with, read the sticky here on "pressure".

Can you please post a link to the pressure sticky as I couldn't readily find that?

Also many new to reloading do so to generate an equivalent std round that is cheaper, then they move in to tailoring & looking for sweet spots etc - i reload 308 for my target rifle to a basic std load & COAL - without any tailoring, its more consistent vs all CIP 308 competition ammo. I could improve that by tailoring, but need to improve me first! so tailoring seems a marginal gain vs my use. I generate that round for a lot less than say 92p GGG 2020 155 grain Imperial ammo.

For basic & new to reloading folks - is there any post, ref or sticky or guidance on:- safe practice, process, risks, checks to do, safety checks, measures, calibrations to do or things to avoid? to reduce if not eliminate the potential for say a breach explosion etc. I am minded by the number of such events occurring & their implications for use of HL ammunition on certain ranges. It strikes me some basic quality control would probably eliminate the gross errors that can cause those?

thanks Phil

Sim G wrote: ↑Tue Jan 04, 2022 9:26 am I’m with Tony, use better better bullets. PPU bullets are Shiite.

They rest of your components are good and your rifle and scope is excellent. But you’ll be frustrated once you get to distances where it will begin to tell and that is only 350yds up…

Would you run a race car on Tesco unleaded?

You could grade them.... measure length & weight, then eliminate the outliers? I did that with a std Eley .22 product, & made it perform as good as the next grade up. Laborious but possibly beneficial?